CRATE TRAINING
by Jim Humphries, DVM

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Crate training is absolutely, without exception, the best way to housebreak a puppy. The "crate" is actually a wire or fiberglass kennel, which becomes the pup’s own little home.

Dogs that are crate-trained have less behavior problems, are more secure and confident, easier to obedience train and stay clam when they must be boarded. They are less susceptible to nervousness and anxiety, which cause behavior problems.


Giving Your Puppy A "Den" Of His Own
Dogs in the wild live in dens. Dens offer protection from the cold, the heat, and predators. It vies the wild dog a sense of security and well being. Domestic dogs also have a strong natural tendency to seek out a "den", a small place to curl up and get their backs up against something in order to feel safe and secure. Using a crate, we can actually simulate the dog’s den.

In nature, a dog does not defecate or urinate in its den. Therefore, a puppy will try to keep his "den" clean. He will naturally hold his bowels and bladder while his is in his crate.
In most homes, it is difficult for a dog to find a place of his own where he can retreat to be by himself, out of the traffic and activity of the home.

By giving a dog his own "den" in your home, you can take advantage of mother nature to quickly housebreak a puppy, control destructive puppy problems, and raise a more well-adjusted dog.
Once a dog is an adult, the door to his crate can be left open and h e can have access to his crate whenever he is tired or wants to be alone.



What Kind of Crate
Buy a crate that is large enough so that the puppy will be able to stand up and turn around when he is adult-sized, roughly 1½ times the size of the dog as an adult.

It is a mistake to buy too big of a crate because the puppy may fail to see it as a "den". However, when buying a crate for a Bull Terrier, it will be necessary to buy a fairly large crate. The crate can be partitioned off while the puppy is very small and then opened up as the puppy gets larger.

A wire crate is strongly recommended, rather than a fiberglass travel-type kennel because a puppy can see out of a wire crate easily and won’t feel isolated. It’s just like putting a human baby in a playpen. The crate should have some soft, washable bedding to make it warm and comfortable.
Introducing the Puppy to the Crate

Start from the beginning having your puppy sleep and rest in his crate. Without any training, he will naturally begin to seek the security and safety of his little "dog room" when he is sleepy or wants to be off by himself.
When first introducing the puppy to the crate, toss in a little treat to get the puppy to go inside, don’t force him in. Coax him with food and reward him with praise. At first, he may back quickly out, that’s normal. Take it slow and encourage him to go in on his own.


The puppy should be allowed to get used to his new home slowly, never just put in the crate and left. It’s best to put the pup in his crate for very short periods of time at first, gradually increasing the time as the pup gets used to being in it.


How to Crate Train
The puppy should be in his crate during all unsupervised times. The crate should be placed where the pup can see you: in the kitchen during meals and in the bedroom for the night. This way, your puppy won’t feel lonely and when he needs to "go", you can hear the whimper and take him out.

During times when you can watch him carefully, let him out to play and explore, but keep your eye on him. The goal is to prevent any accidents, but owners need to be realistic and realize that some accidents will happen.

Watch for sniffing and circling. This is an indication that your puppy is about to "go". Quickly and gently guide him to the door, praise him at the door and take him outside to the chosen spot. Stay with your puppy until he goes. When he does, it is important to get very excited and really praise your puppy. This is the only way he knows that he has pleased you by "going" outside. Give him time to defecate as well as urinate. He will probably walk around a little and pick another spot.



Accidents in the Crate
his whole lifYour puppy may have an accident or two in the crate at first, especially if you are not good about taking him out often enough. The puppy should not be scolded for eliminating in the crate. These accidents should be ignored, cleaned up, and closer attention paid to the puppy’s schedule for the next few days.
Schedule

Schedule is vital in housetraining. At first, your puppy should be taken out every 2 hours. Young puppies, 6-7 weeks old, have to empty their bladders at least every 2 hours. Puppies 8-10 weeks old still need to "go" about every 3-4 hours. As the pup gets older and is able to "hold it longer", the time intervals between going out can be gradually increased. There are certain times that your puppy will always need an opportunity to eliminate.
Your puppy will need to "go":

Just a few minutes after eating and drinking.
After vigorous playing and chewing.
After waking up.

By following a strict schedule, your puppy learns to hold his bowels and bladder until he is taken outside. This schedule will stay with him his whole life
.


How Long Can Your Puppy Stay in his Crate?
By the time your puppy is 6-8 months old, he will probably be able to hold his bowels and bladder for eight hours. That is a long time, however for a puppy to be in a crate.
If you work during the day, I recommend someone come home at lunch and let the puppy out to give him some attention as well as letting him eliminate. If you can’t do that yourself, try to get a neighbor or friend to go over once during the day to let him out.

If you have a safe, enclosed yard, I recommend letting the pup be in the yard during the day while you’re gone. That way he can eliminate as he needs to and can be inside with the family in the evening and can sleep in his crate at night.



Crate Training to Prevent Chewing Problems
Crate training is also the best way to prevent destructive chewing problems and to focus a puppy’s chewing on approved objects.

When you can’t supervise your puppy, he should be in his crate and should always have a couple of chew toys. Not only can your pup not destroy shoes and furniture while in his crate, he will feel more secure in his little "doggie den" while you are gone and so will have less anxiety.
When out of the kennel, the puppy should be watched carefully so that you will be able to interrupt, and redirect, any unapproved chewing before your puppy does any damage.


When Can Your Puppy Be Left Free In the House Alone?
By about 6 months of age, most puppies, who have been crate trained, are reliably trained enough to be left in the house unattended.

This should be done gradually, leaving the dog alone for only 5 minutes at first and praising good behavior when you return. The time the pup is left alone should be gradually increased.
If the pup does any "unapproved chewing" or has any accidents, while you are gone, go back to kennel training and try again in a couple of weeks. A puppy or dog should never be punished for any accidents or chewing done while the owner is gone. The dog will not understand why he is being punished and it will on increase his anxiety the next time he is left alone.


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